How Mala Mala Changed Me

By: Ali Ames

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This past October, I was given the experience of a lifetime—a stay at Rattray’s Camp, courtesy of my parents. Words can hardly express how life-changing that trip was for me.

As our flight from Cape Town made its final descent, I spotted my first elephants. That rush of African magic hit me like adrenaline — but sweeter. I was overwhelmed in the best way and little did I know that feeling would only grow stronger with each day of our trip.

We were picked up at Skukuza Airport and driven to Mala Mala. Along the way, it felt as though the animals were on parade to welcome us. Elephants, impala, and giraffes were everywhere, and we even had to stop for a giraffe crossing! Then, we entered the gateway to Rattray’s Camp. The warm smiles and hospitality of the staff and the resident antelopes made it instantly clear that this place would become special to us.

That’s where the adventure truly began for me. Game drives opened my eyes, my ears, and, most unexpectedly, my heart. I was ready for beauty, but the sheer magnificence of what I experienced surpassed even my wildest dreams. The vivid colors of the lilac-breasted roller, the deep red and purple hues of poison impala lilies, the striking golds and greens in the eyes of the big cats — these sights were nothing short of breathtaking. And the camouflage! Leopards, whose spots are a fashion statement back home, blended seamlessly into the grasses and riverbeds as they hunted or napped. It was nature’s artistry at its finest.

Every animal carried a story. The calm, commanding presence of lions embodied power. The elephants’ ability to uproot trees was a testament to their strength. Giraffes moved with elegance, whether in their iconic ‘towers’ or their nomadic ‘journeys’. And the impalas — their palpable fear, whether from a real predator or the shadows of their imagination, reminded me of the rawness of life in the bush.

We learned to read the footprints in the sand and distinguish between the tracks of different animals. At night, with all the lights turned off, the Milky Way stretched endlessly above us. Seeing planets and layers upon layers of stars made me feel closer to God. It was a profound reminder to pause and truly take in life’s wonders. In that silence and under that sky, I learned to look beyond the surface, to appreciate the beauty that surrounds us in every direction. I also realized how little our lifeline devices, like cellphones, offer compared to the richness of this world.

Sound became a revelation on this trip. The clacking of impalas, the songs and alarms of birds, the trumpeting of elephants, and — on our last morning — the majestic roar of lions created a symphony I’ll never forget. Even silence became meaningful. One morning, while tracking the Ngoveni female’s cubs, we relied on every alert from other creatures, every sound or even the absence of sound, to guide us. Though we didn’t find the cubs until a later game drive, I realized afterward how heightened my senses had become from the search. Back in my room, I could hear the absence of wind, and that quiet moved me in ways I can’t fully explain. Coming from busy Texas, where life is filled with constant noise, the ability to hear true silence was a gift I didn’t know I needed. It made me wonder if predators experience the same emotional letdown after an unsuccessful hunt, a wave of calm washing over them as their bodies settle, or if their instincts keep them perpetually grounded in the wild. The beauty of new thoughts and ideas to explore!

From the moment we arrived, Rattray’s charm, spirit, and attention to detail made us feel not just welcome but cherished. Warm greetings, thoughtful touches in meals and drinks, and engaging conversations with our guide David, as well as our new friends Zweli and Victor, left no moment wasted. My mornings began with coffee in my Stanley classic green mug, bundled in a blanket as we climbed into the jeep, watching the sunrise paint the sky. Each day felt like a reset, a new chapter in the unfolding story of Mala Mala. The lions we tracked the night before could be miles away, new footprints awaited discovery, and the possibilities were endless. The thrill of crossing rivers, the chill of the morning air, and the warmth of the sun as it climbed in the sky were experiences that never got old. Adventure was everywhere.

Afternoon tea became another highlight, with a new gin and tonic combination to enjoy, delicious treats, and shared stories from fellow guests. But the real focus was always on how soon we could get back out to the bush. We were often late for dinner because we couldn’t pull ourselves away from the game drives, and staying in our dusty safari clothes felt perfectly right, as though the remnants of the bush clinging to us were a badge of honor, keeping us deeply immersed in the discoveries of that night’s drive. We would have stayed out all night if that was allowed!

This trip was more than an adventure; it was transformative. Not a day has passed since I left without reminiscing or daydreaming about returning to Rattray’s Camp. My worldview has shifted. At home, animals don’t reign supreme, the stars are few and faint, silence is rare, and greetings lack warmth. Africa, by contrast, is a woven quilt of life, each thread vibrant and essential, coming together to create something indescribably beautiful. But unlike a quilt, you don’t simply admire it from afar; you live within it, surrounded by its magic.

I’m endlessly grateful to my parents for gifting me this trip and determined to find a way back to Mala Mala. I wish everyone could experience what I did: the Kambula pride hunting under the cloak of night, “Midge” and his brother roaring, zebras squabbling by the watering hole, a baby elephant trumpeting as it raced after its mother, and a leopard leaping gracefully through tree branches to reach its kill. There is not a single day that passes that I don’t daydream of the animals, and of coming back to experience it all again.

Thank you, Mala Mala. Thank you, Africa. And thank you, God, for your awe-inspiring creations. You have left me forever changed.

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